In summary, here's some big surf safety tips:

Never turn your back on the ocean! - Mai huli `oe i kokua o ke kai!
Swim at beaches with lifeguards
Check with lifeguards for conditions
Read and observe posted sign warnings
Watch children carefully. Hold on to the younger ones.
Watch the surf for at least 15 minutes before entering the water
Never attempt to swim at the water's edge during big surf
Never surf or bodyboard in big waves unless you are an expert
Never rely on your board or leash as a substitute for your swimming ability
Never swim in big surf if you are not a strong swimmer
Do not drink alcohol or do drugs and swim
Keiki, "Newbies" & "Grommits:" Watch out for your own and others' surfcraft if/when you wipe out
If In Doubt, Just Stay Out!